Let Us Walk Together

Showing up

2011-08-27T01:24:00.000-07:00

I have less than one week before my flight back to the US, which I'm still wrapping my mind around. This year has taught me much and pushed me in ways I could have never expected. Yesterday was my last Friday at Itipini, and I got to spend time with some of my greatest teachers. On Fridays after the clinic closes, high school students from the community come for Study Skills sessions. Over the past several months a "regular crew" has formed, and we gather to talk about what's going on in school, at home, and to work on homework together.

I'm grateful for our time together and look back happily over our mutual growth. Starting back in November with the help of Ben, who was a fellow volunteer at Itipini for three months, we began meeting on a regular basis. Megan Berry was also a huge help in tutoring, working with local schools, and reminding us all to have a good sense of humor. Awkwardness around language barriers and my inability to remember trigonometry surrounded many of our first gatherings. Since then, we've come to know more of each others' stories. Many of these kids have less than ideal home situations and attend schools lacking in resources. Siziwe (pictured below) and her sister Khayakhazi are attending 11th and 12th grades respectively. This year they have lost both of their parents to AIDS and tuberculosis. They now care for their younger brother along with their own children with the help of neighbors. The pain and loss they have experienced this year is great, and their responsibilities have jumped tremendously. However, they are working to not let this pain define them, and continue showing up.

Classroom at Itipini Junior Secondary School where most children from Itipini attend grades 1-9

Drop out rates in the Eastern Cape are staggeringly high, and this certainly rings true in Itipini. Home environments not conducive to studying (no electricity, no running water, lack of privacy, sometimes little or no parental support) and school environments that are also challenging (few textbooks, teacher-less classrooms, no school transport, socio-economic discrimination) make the path to passing the matriculation exam in twelfth grade a daunting task for many.

Figuring out how to best support and encourage our students has been a challenge, and I think in many ways it is about showing up. Showing up on Fridays to provide a space for them to work together on homework. Showing up at school to talk to their teachers when a parent has died. Showing up when they come to me with a problem at home or school, and listening. They have taught me this through their own living examples of continuing to show up--at school, on Fridays, and to responsibilities at home that are many. Consistency and presence are sometimes all we can offer, but that is a great gift. They return that gift to me by continuing to come on Fridays, and by sharing their joys and sorrows during the week. These young men and women have been some of my greatest teachers this year, and I am humbly thankful for our time together. They have taught me the importance of showing up and not giving up, and that has been a great, great lesson.

Luleka, Siziwe, Nonzaliseko, Nocwaka, Baliswa, and Zukile

looking and looking and looking

2011-07-10T05:36:00.000-07:00

Elsa, Nonzuzo, Vuyelwa, Elsa, and Nomxolisi work together on filling in a job application.

Getting to know some of the young women of Itipini has been one of the highlights of my time here. I've seen our relationships grow overtime, and appreciate our conversations about music, family, politics, Mthatha, and about struggles in our lives. A major one for all the young people I've met during my time here is how to get into university and where to find work. The unemployment rate in South Africa is around 25%, with the latest figures showing rates of 26.9% for the Eastern Cape (as reported by Statistics South Africa at www.statssa.gov.za).

Much of the world is feeling an increase in job loss and financial constrain, and that is certainly felt in our community at Itipini where a majority of the residents are unemployed or semi-employed. Working with community members to find positive outlets to use their time and skills is a daily struggle experienced at the project. Many times factors such as level of education, children, transportation, and work experience make it difficult for Itipini residents to find work. Alcohol and drug usage impacts, either directly or peripherally, a majority of families living at Itipini who have members looking for work. Plus, numerous community members have shared with us the ways in which they face discrimination and judgment from potential employers who do not wish to hire them simply because they are living at Itipini and the reputation that connotes. Looking for work is rarely easy, however looking for work in Mthatha seems like a Sisyphean struggle to many.

This year is helping to teach me that there is so very much that I do not understand, and an area where more questions than answers have been found is the employment and education situation in South Africa, more specifically Mthatha. However, recently good news has been coming through on the employment and education front for some community members and friends. Recently Nonzuzo (second from left in picture above) was accepted as a student at the University of South Africa, and three other young women completed a security training course with flying colors. Maybe more good news is on the way...

Best Week

2011-05-08T07:52:00.000-07:00

It had been in the works and the subject of heated discussions all year, but following Easter, "Team South Africa" finally set out on a roadtrip from Cape Town destined for the Eastern Cape. "Team South Africa" is composed of the four YASCers living and working here this year--Amanda, Ann, Travis, and myself. Amanda and Ann both live in Cape Town where they work for HOPE Africa and with Anglican student ministries, respectively, and Travis is based in Grahamstown where he serves as an assistant teacher for students in Grade R (kindergarten). As a group we had hoped to find time during the course of the year to get together for a trip of some sort, and with a slew of public holidays lining up at the end of April we set our dates! We decided to make our way from Cape Town to Mthatha driving along the Garden Route, which is a popular section of the southern half of the country because of its varied landscapes and interesting stopping points along the way. We would also have the opportunity to spend time with one another in our various sites and get a glimpse of what life, work, and play is like in each of our placements.

Team South Africa: Travis, Ann, Amanda, and Me

I flew to Cape Town on Maunday Thursday, and was able to share in the rest of Holy Week with Ann and Amanda in the Mother City. It was a real gift being able to spend these days with them, and wonderful to take part in services at St. Faith's where Amanda has been serving as a deacon since early April.

Travis flew into Cape Town on Monday April 25th, and we began our 1,000+ kilometer journey toward Mthatha. That afternoon we wound our way along the coast to our first stop in Cape Agulhas. The two-lane highway just outside of Cape Town hugs the rocky coast and was a stunning start to our trek. Cape Agulhas is the southernmost tip of the African continent, and we arrived just in time to catch the sunset where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. We spent some time walking out amongst the rocks and taking in the cool night air, and then headed into town for dinner. We spent the night at Cape Agulhas Backpackers which had warm fireplace to greet us. It was also an ideal spot for catching up with one another celebrating the start of our adventure.

Cape Agulhas, southernmost tip of the African continent

and meeting point of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans

Tuesday morning we headed back out to The Tip, and visited the lighthouse that sits on Cape Agulhas. It's the second oldest lighthouse in the country, and making the steep and very windy climb up to its beacon is worth the views of the two oceans below. We then drove down to a shipwreck that sits just off the coast where we could see the power, both beautiful and haunting, and that the waters hold.

We piled back into our trusty Nissan Tilda bound for our next stop in Plettenberg Bay. We detoured off of the N2 for a little while to wind along the R62. This road took us through mountains and arid stretches that contrasted with the rocky edges of the coast and fertile fields that we passed on our first day. In Plett we stayed at Acacia B&B, and settled into our first night there following dinner at a restaurant for the "young and hip" that Lesley our hostess suggested...see picture below for evidence of our young and hip-ness. Two thumbs up.

Wednesday we kept in local and explored the sights around Plett. We visited Bramon Wine Estate in the morning and tasted some wonderful wine at this family run establishment. Bramon also has a restaurant that sits out among their vines, and we enjoyed a lunch that was just wonderful. The tappas style menu allowed us to try LOTS of yummy dishes, and we all left full and happy.

Travis, Amanda, and Ann give lunch at Bramon Wine Estate a glowing review

After Bramon, we paid a visit to Monkeyland and Birds of Eden which lie just up the road along a stretch known as the Crags. This monkey and bird sanctuary provided us with some up close encounters of furry and winged creatures. We also were able to spend some time sitting by the water in Plettenberg Bay, which is one of the most popular coastal destinations in the country. That evening we enjoyed another dinner in town, and rested up for our next stop.

Thursday our time on the road was short, but the contrast in locations was quite glaring. That morning we drove about an hour east to Storm's River, which is located in the middle of the Tsitsikamma National Forrest. From coastal bay to giant pines and yellow woods! We checked into our backpackers, and then Ann and Travis decided to try out some of the activities the area offers for thrill seekers. Ziplining was their adventure of choice, and they zigged and zagged their way along a ravine through the forrest. Next, all four of us took a walk out to see the famed "Big Tree," which does in fact live up to its name. This gianourmous yellow wood is over 800 years old, and towers above its younger floral neighbors. I really enjoyed spending time walking through the woods in the area, which had both a primeval and familiar feel to them. At moments, I could have sworn I was walking through Shakerag Hollow or another trail back in Tennessee...

Around lunch we headed to Storms River Mouth, where Storms River meets the Indian Ocean. This was hands-down my favorite stop of our trip. The color of the water, the mix of mountain and coastal landscapes, and the beauty of this national park were amazing. The park's restaurant sits just over the edge of the water, and it was a stunning place to enjoy a meal. We then took a hike over to the mouth of the river, which can be crossed via a trio of suspension bridges. Along the ridge of one of the mountains we saw a lookout point, and somehow or another we decided to reach it. Our leisurely walk soon turned into a full on climb, but we made it and basked in our triumph (i.e. caught our breath) once we made it. We stayed up there until the sun started to set, and then headed back to Djembe Backpackers where the night took a turn toward the surreal.

Storms River Mouth

At Djembe, we grabbed a drink and then settled into a circle that was forming around the fire. There was a small group of middle aged South Africans, who were in town for an Elvis Festival. Yes, an Elvis Festival. In Storms River. In a fifties themed dinner called "Marilyn's." Yep. As the night progressed, other folks joined us...some from Germany, more South Africans, and later a group of Americans. Eventually we convinced Alan , who is an Elvis impersonator competing in some of the festivals competitions, to bring out his karaoke gear. Speakers were set up, mics were tested, and soon "Mojo" and "Love Me Tender" were being croned into the night air. Others joined in, some ABBA and Garth Brooks tunes were busted out, and we all sang along under the stars. Surreal and wonderful.

Some elephants in Addo Elephant Park, ya know, just hanging out...

Friday we said so long to Storms River, and made our way to Grahamstown (aka Travis' stomping grounds). Along the way though we took a detour into Addo Elephant Park, where we spent a few hours driving around with them earthly giants. We rolled the windows down to listen and watch as they stood just feet from us. They are humbling beings that fill me with wonder every time I see them.

While in Grahamstown, we stayed at uMariya uMama weThemba Monastery, the Anglican Benedictine monastery where Travis lives and works. This has become one of my favorite places to share time and space since I've been here, and I was happy to back. Saturday Ann, Amanda, and I spent the day at Pumba Game Reserve while Travis stayed to do some work at the monastery. There we saw lots of animals including a rhino, lions, hippos, giraffe, and the significantly smaller, yet equally impressive, bat-earred fox. Saturday evening we attended a vigils service in the chapel with the brothers, and enjoyed some Thai food in town for our last dinner all together.

Sunday morning we went to eucharist in the chapel, which was a great way to spend our last morning together. There, much hope and joy was shared. Travis preached that morning, and we were able to spend time after the service mingling with the monks and children from the area who Travis with whom spends his days. From there Amanda, Ann, and I sadly said our goodbyes as we continued on to Mthatha, while Travis stayed on in Grahamstown.

We wound our way through the curves of the N2 that lead into the Transkei. The drive from Grahamstown to Mthatha, which at times can be hair-raising because of the occasional stray cow or goat combined with narrow and winding roads, is my favorite. The rolling hills of this section of the Eastern Cape are dotted with brightly painted rondavels that seem to pop up out of the tall grass and vertical landscape. We made it safely to my home in rondavel number one at Bedford Hospital, and settled into dinner with Megan my friend, neighbor, and fellow volunteer extraordinaire.

Thanksgiving in May!

Ann, Amanda, and Megan cozy up around the Mac inside my rondavel for some Macy's festivities

The next morning we had Thanksgiving in May! What better time to watch the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade than May 2nd? This is a Turkey Day morning tradition at my house, and my mom had been wonderful to record it for me back in November. However, when the disc made its way to South Africa in early January, it was the middle of summer here, and that is no time to watch Matt Lauer, Meredith, and Al bundled up in Herald Square. So, since the cool weather had set in by May and with friends around, we nestled in for a breakfast feast (complete with festive turkey paper plates) to the sights and sounds of parade joy!

We then spent the rest of the day exploring Mthatha. Monday was a public holiday and Itipini Community Project was closed, but we stopped by for a visit and I was able to share some of what my days here are like with Ann and Amanda. It was fun and exciting being able to show them around a place that has really become my home. They were able to meet some of the friends I've made over these months, and see important places that continue to shape my time here. It was a full day, and one for which I am very thankful. So maybe that whole Thanksgiving in May deal really was appropriate?

Tuesday morning I headed back to work, while Amanda and Ann set off for their flight home. It was hard seeing them go, and to see such a week come to an end. I'm so happy and thankful Team South Africa had this time to spend together. We were able to get to know each other better, see much of this beautiful country, share parts of our respective communities with one another, and of course, listen to some pretty great music along the way.

Best. Week.

Glimpses

2011-04-12T07:00:00.000-07:00

Last week many of the kiddos were on a school holiday, and in an effort to keep them interested and occupied we had a couple of game days. Mostly it was slightly organized chaos, but in the end, I think everyone had a good time. The trusty egg-n-spoon race was a crowd favorite. Suspense, the thrill of victory, the agony of defeat/having egg splatter on your feet--this game really has it all. Limbo, water relay games, and a new twist on bobbing for apples that involved tangerines were also part of the festivities.

Such concentration...

I also wanted to elaborate a little more on Sabelani Home, which I referenced in an earlier post. Sabelani has become one of my favorite places to spend time here in Mthatha. It is home to eleven young men and Father Guy, a Catholic priest and all around wonderful man who started the project over a decade ago. Sabelani, a name which implies a response to being called or spoken to, provides resources for low income boys and young men who want to further their education. Some live in the house and others receive monetary support, but all must be committed to further learning. Getting to know the guys, laughing with them, hearing pieces of their individual stories, and seeing how they live together in community to support one another has been great.

Father Guy and Boyi-Boyi hang some laundry in the backyard, while Megan and I provide moral support.

Annnd finally, I have to share a story from this past weekend that involves an unexpected visitor. Megan and I were enjoying a quiet and laid back Saturday morning, when all of the sudden we discovered a cobra had found its way into our hallway. Megan heard the snake slither and then saw it do its eerie cobra-head-raised thing, and ran back into my side of the house. We isolated the snake to the hallway and then enlisted the help of our neighbors Georgio and Sabra (aka Cobra Dundee and Sabra the Snake Scooper). Having had their fair share of snake encounters, they grabbed a hoe, pitchfork, and giant bucket to ward off the unwelcome guest.

Sadly, the cobra had to meet its end, but really it could have at least knocked before coming inside. Ah, just another Saturday in Mthatha...

2011-04-03T08:39:00.001-07:00

On Monday evening our friend Sipho passed away. Sipho was a father, a husband, and a man with a gentle spirit. His name means “gift,” and he was just that for me and others who knew him. Sipho was living with HIV (and, in his case, TB, oral thrush, wasting disease, dehydration, and probably esophageal cancer). His wife Pamela is also HIV positive and has Multi Drug Resistant TB.

Megan and I spent most of the day Monday with Sipho at Ngangelizwe Clinic pleading with nurses and doctors to help rehydrate him and make a plan for further treatment. We ended up seeing a kind doctor who gave Sipho a liter of fluid and us instructions to run further tests in the coming days. Jenny picked Sipho up from the clinic and drove him home. He insisted on walking up to his tin house, painted a pale pink, that sits on the edge of a hill beside the clinic. Jenny received a call from his oldest child at around six in the evening, in the middle of a torrential rainstorm, to say that he was gone.

Sipho’s partner Pamela, and his three children have also come to mean a great deal to me as I’ve gotten to know them through the clinic and tutoring after school. They have lost a significant piece of their family, and the larger community feels that loss as well. I am struggling to reconcile my feelings surrounding this loss and the awful pain and hunger Sipho felt in the days and weeks before his death.

A new friend, Mary-Ann Carpenter, shared this prayer with Megan and me Saturday evening while we were in Durban last weekend. The Carpenter family is a living example of how reconciliation and beauty can come out of brokenness and despair. It has come to mind many times this week.

Dear God,

We struggle, we grow weary, we grow tired. We are exhausted, we are distressed, we despair. We give up, we fall down, we let go.

We cry.

We are empty, we grow calm, we are ready.

We wait quietly.

A small, shy truth arrives. Arrives from without and within. Arrives and is born. Simple, steady, clear. Like a mirror, like a bell, like a flame. Like rain in summer. A precious truth arrives and is born within us. Within our emptiness.

We accept it, we observe it, we absorb it. We surrender to our bare truth. We are nourished, we are changed, we are blessed. We rise up.

For this we give thanks.

Amen.

-Michael Leunig

Transparent Time

2011-03-21T06:49:00.000-07:00

Just before I left for Mthatha, I sat down for dinner with both of my parents at our kitchen table that has the giant legs which make for excellent footrests and the worn spots on its center from years of dishes being placed upon its grain. That table has been my kitchen table for all twenty-three years of my life, and gathered around it were the two most important people to me. We sat and ate and talked like we had many times before when I was younger, and honestly there was no better way for me to spend my time before leaving. A meal shared together was one of our last acts as a family before my year in South Africa began.

In thinking back over these seven months, meals shared together stand out as a theme. Whether it be lasagna night at Jenny's on Wednesday, lunch on a hot Sunday afternoon in a one room church, gathered around a table with eleven of the most remarkable young men I've met at Sabelani Home, or a braai (Afrikaans term for a BBQ) with other volunteers as a storm rolls in, these times shared together stand out. Here I feel nourished both my the food we consume, but also by the conversations that unfold. Around these tables of various shapes and sizes, there is time to decompress, to laugh, to share, and to learn a new part of someone's story. These are moments of transparent time.

"A sacrament is when something holy happens. It is transparent time, time which you can see through to something deep inside time....Needless to say, church isn't the only place where the holy happens. Sacramental moments can occur at any moment, any place, and to anybody. Watching something get born. Making love. A high school graduation. Somebody coming to see you when you are sick. A meal with people you love. Looking into a stranger's eyes and finding out he's not a stranger. If we weren't blind as bats, we might see that life itself is sacramental."

Frederick Buechner, Wishful Thinking

So, about those 35 days...

2011-03-01T10:00:00.000-08:00

Is it really March 1^st? My calendar on the wall tells me it’s true, but I'm finding it hard to believe. February has been a very full month on this end, and every day is an adventure.

Example: Wednesday of last week Jenny told me in her wonderful British accent and with her kind demeanor that there was, “possibly a bit of an emergency,” and asked if I would mind going to pick up a woman who was in labor to drive to the local OB clinic at Ngangalizwe. I grabbed the keys, and Megan, my new neighbor and a very welcome addition to Team Itipini, grabbed a pair of gloves. Megan has worked in an Emergency Room for two years since graduating from college and said to me, “Well, I did deliver a baby in EMT class on a plastic mannequin a few years ago. So yeah…” Compared to my experience and in my mind this made Megan an expert. So, we nervously and excitedly jumped in the truck.

The young woman in labor is the daughter-in-law of one of the ladies who works at Itipini named Makiwa. Makiwa rode up front with us while Victoria, another mama from Itipini, rode in the back. Our ride to the house was pretty hilarious. Megan sat in the middle straddling the gearshift, while Makiwa sat next to her speaking solely in Xhosa and giving hand gesture directions. Many of the roads in Mthatha are a maze of potholes and test drivers’ abilities to dodge pedestrians, livestock, and other vehilcles, but ladies and gentlemen, we may have succeeded in finding the worst road in Mthatha. The dirt road through fields and into the neighborhood left us nearly vertical at a couple of points and bouncing along most of the way. However, we made it without a tire puncture or tipping over, and supplied Makiwa and Victoria with comedic relief for the next few weeks.

We walked into the house, and while I may not know much about being in labor and having babies, I could tell this young woman was not into the serious stages of labor. She was very pregnant and soon would be, so maybe they figured the car ride back would help get her water to break? It was a pretty exciting and funny adventure all the way around. Also, Megan and I have decided that expeditions such as this warrant us our own TV show, “Amazing Race: Mthatha.” Days such as this we consider as good training for our series premiere…

This month I’ve also been working more closely with Itipini Junior Secondary School, where we have over 100 kids from Itipini in grades 1-9. Afterschool tutoring with high schoolers has also started up again, and both of these endeavors are testing my math and science recall…let’s just say I’m very happy to have Megan’s help and the ability to Google things in between sessions. Education is a key component of the support we try to provide at Itipini Community Project. In this region it is a real struggle for many kids to have the resources to attend, and then when they are at school the supplies and personnel there are often lacking. Yesterday I was assisting Principal Madikizla at Itipini J.S.S., who also teaches Geography. The grade 8 classroom was packed with 70+ students and between them there were only six protractors in hand to complete the worksheet on bearing. Well, and in grade 9, there are 83 kids in the classroom! Throughout my education from kindergarten through Sewanee, I think 32 was my maximum class size, so this has put things in a whole new perspective.

Outside of work, I’ve been spending time with the great new crew we having living at Bedford and exploring some of the options Mthatha weekends have to offer. Highlights include getting a tour of Walter Sisulu University courtesy of Adam Carpenter (a third year medical student), tasting the culinary delights of the new McDonald’s in town (yes, it tasks eerily the same), walking Jenny’s dogs/small horses, attempting to learn the rules of cricket by watching the ICC Cricket World Cup, and hanging out with some of the highschoolers from Itipini. I also had a nice weekend away with two volunteers Jai and Olof where we went on a game drive and visited Chintsa, which is on the coast and is absolutely beautiful.

It’s been a very full month, and really does feel like it has flown by. I’ve also bid farewell to three wonderful new friends this month Tom, Meredith, and Ben who I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know and work with since October. A big thank you to all three for some excellent times together, and good luck in new adventures.

Thanks for stopping by, and there will be more to follow soon.

Peace.

Whirlwind...

2011-01-21T03:23:00.000-08:00

Greetings from Mthatha. This is a long overdue post, but that’s mostly due to the fact that there’s been quite a lot happening in the past month. Here are a few more pictures from adventuring in Cape Town, and some updates from this corner of the Southern Hemisphere…

I am so thankful for the two weeks I was able to spend in the "Mother City" of Cape Town. Being able to share Christmas and celebrate the start of the New Year with good friends was truly wonderful. Amanda and Ann who are YASCers in Cape Town were gracious hosts and great tour guides to Jessie, who flew down from her YASC post in Maseno, Kenya, and myself. I arrived on the 23^rd, just in time for Christmas Eve preparations and to share the holiday cheer in a new place with some familiar faces. We had a tasty and unique Christmas Eve experience when Mari, one Amanda’s co-workers at HOPE Africa, invited us over for a traditional Finnish meal. We shared some delicious food, danced, swapped gifts, and laughed a lot. Then we journeyed over to the St. George’s Cathedral for their midnight mass. Sitting there as the service started, I couldn’t help but miss my family and the late night service that would be taking place a few hours from then at St. Paul’s in Chattanooga. This was my first Christmas away from my homes in Chattanooga, Los Angeles, and Sewanee, and I felt the absence of the traditions that each place holds. However, I realized sitting there in the candlelit darkness of St. George’s and singing “O Come, All Ye Faithful,” what a truly a miraculous event we were celebrating in community worldwide in a way that I never have before.

We all spent the night in the cozy home of Rev. Suzanne Peterson (and her wonderful pup Thembi) who has been living and working in South Africa for over a decade. Her house became holiday central on Christmas Day. We spent most of the day cooking, eating Jessie’s monkey bread, listening to music, trying to master the paddle ball that Amanda’s mom sent to her, and just being together. My role in all of the cooking was mainly to chop this or wash that, so I can’t really take much credit, but we ended up with quite a feast for Christmas dinner with Ann’s leg of lamb as our center piece (check out the picture from my last post to see more of our delicious spread).

The rest of our time together in Cape Town was spent exploring and sharing with one another. One of our first adventures was to the top of Table Mountain via the cable cars on a very windy day. We also made our way out to Boulder’s Beach where we could hang out with some penguins, and dip our toes into the verrrry chilly waters. Wine tasting was also a must, and a fun evening out with the staff of HOPE Africa made for many memories including a midnight visit to Clifton Beach. We also ventured to the Castle of Good Hope and the District Six Museum, which the history nerd in me loved. The District Six Museum stood out especially as a place where stories are preserved, honored, and shared in a very community driven way. I appreciated this and how it pushed me to think about memory, storytelling, and the power of the human voice in new ways. Our time together also allowed us to share our stories with one another and talk about where our journeys this year are taking us. I felt so much joy being there with Jessie, Amanda, and Ann. Ringing in 2011 with these amazing young women will not be forgotten, and I’m so grateful we had the opportunity to share this time together.

Flying back to Mthatha, I was filled with happiness both from the memories of Cape Town, but also in feeling that I was coming a home. I was coming back to people and places that are no longer so new and unfamiliar. Getting out of the truck on our first day back at Itipini, I was greeted by Wee Mama, who has one of the best smiles, and engulfed by a big hug and “Molo Sarah! Unjani?” (“Hello Sarah! How are you?”). I was happy to be back and hear how everyone was doing. It was good to see the kids and some of our regulars in the clinic. My first day back and these first few weeks since our holiday break have such a different feel to them than my first days in Itipini. I’m so very glad to be back.

School started last week, and a lot of our time has been spent helping sort out their registration fees and paperwork. It’s a busy time, and I’ll have more to share soon. Thanks for reading, and let us walk together.

Peace be with you.

p.s. To learn more about what Amanda, Ann, and Jessie are doing in Cape Town and Maseno, please click on their names and you’ll be taken to their blogs.

Merry Christmas!

2010-12-25T22:43:00.000-08:00

Christmas greetings from Cape Town! More to come on how we celebrated together in Cape Town, but I wanted to share a few images from my past two days here. I am so thankful to share this time with Amanda, Ann, and Jessie. We've celebrated, laughed, decorated, cooked, sung, cried, given, and received together. It has been a good Christmas so far, and I look forward to the rest of our time here.

Merry Christmas, and let us continue walking together.

Peace be with you.

"Do not be afraid; for see--I am bringing you good news of great joy for all the people: to you is born this day in the city of David a Saviour, who is the Messiah, the Lord." Luke 2:10-11

"Slow down. Quiet. It's Advent."

2010-12-15T06:01:00.000-08:00

Advent greetings from Mthatha. This is a season of expectant waiting, preparation, and one of my very favorite times of year. In Sewanee we used to have, “Slow down. Quiet. It’s Advent,” signs up around All Saint’s. As it was then with the busy nature of the end of the semester, these past few weeks have been full of preparations for the end of the year at Itipini...

We had a World AIDS Day program at the beginning of the month. The older kids designed and painted posters for the day, the choir sang, and Yoliswa, who has been my language tutor, was our guest speaker. We also had an AMM staff lunch outing last week. It was great to have everyone together outside of work to share a meal. Probably the biggest event of the month though has been preschool graduation. Last Friday, twenty-two very eager five and six year olds proudly received graduation certificates from Itipini Preschool. It was a pretty exciting day to say the least.

I’ve also tried to decorate my rondavel with a bit of festive cheer, and we’ve had two very successful braais (Afrikaans for barbeque) here at the hospital to take advantage of the warm weather this time of year brings to South Africa. The picture from the coast was taken in Chinsta where I travelled with three AMM volunteers for a weekend to relax. Not a bad view from our room, huh? This past weekend, it was also great to have a visit from Travis, a fellow YASCer, who came up for a visit from Grahamstown.

While it has been hard to be away from home at a time when that seems most familiar, I’m enjoying spending this season in a new context. I’ve been trying to slow down, find moments of quiet, and get ready for the joy of Christmas. I’m also excited for an upcoming trip to Cape Town next week, where I’ll get to see three of my fellow YASCers and celebrate some new-to-me Christmas traditions. Enjoy the pictures, and thanks for stopping by. Peace be with you.

That is a what? Oooh... a turkey.

2010-11-25T13:25:00.000-08:00

"Walkin' the line between faith and fear"

2010-11-21T10:20:00.000-08:00

These past two weeks have been two of the most challenging. There has been a combination of things that lead me say this, which include short bout with a stomach bug, tough cases at the clinic, and missing family and friends. Thankfully, I’m feeling much better and have a little more perspective with which I can look back at those situations. At the clinic, three cases in particular have stood out. Ones that have caused me ask a lot of “Why is this happening?” questions. One involved a three-year-old boy who was for all intents and purposes abandoned by his mother. For two weeks he passed between relations who live at Itipini. When we heard about his situation at the clinic, a social worker was contacted, he received a much-needed bath, some new clothes, and treatment for his ringworm. He’s now gone to stay with a grandmother out of town, but seeing this little boy toted around and talked about like an object rather than a child was difficult. When he left, more of his personality had started to come out and he was playing with the other kids, but I know his future is still very uncertain. I also realize he is one of many children like this at Itipini, in Mthatha, and the world.

Another case involved a woman in her late thirties who has AIDS. She was carried in one day on a stretcher, severely dehydrated and unable to stand. Ben, another volunteer, and I took her to another clinic to receive IV fluids. We brought her home at the end of the day, but the following morning as we drove into Itipini, we were stopped by people telling us she had suffered seizures in the night. We took her to the emergency room, along with her sister. Seeing her and how poorly she looked was scary. I don’t think there’s another word for it. Walking out of the emergency room, I honestly thought she might die. We have since received word that she has gone with another sister to a hospital closer to her homeland in another part of the country.

Finally, this Thursday a young girl, an older woman, and a tiny newborn baby came up to the clinic just as we were packing up to leave. After talking with Jenny and Sister Dorothy, we learned that the young girl of just thirteen had been raped and had just delivered the baby a few days before in the hospital. They all came back Friday to open a new file for the baby, talk about breastfeeding, and how they were all doing. All three of these lives have changed dramatically.

I still have no answer for the “why” questions for what is happening in the lives of all these people. I have been able to see some hope in all three situations though, in that there appear to be family members who are there to help--a grandmother, sisters, and a mother. These individuals have also showed me how important our work at Itipini is whether it’s getting people to the hospital, counseling new mothers, offering a hug to a little boy, or being present with people during times of great pain. We’re doing what we can as best we can, and that is something.

To help balance out these difficult experiences at work and with Thanksgiving just around the corner, I’m thankful to hear updates from family and friends. Conversations, meals shared together, and listening to some good music here at Bedford have also been very welcome. Plus, as you’ll see in some of the pictures there have been many happy times at Itipini too-- including the futbol team posing with their new jerseys, checking out new books in the library, and lots of playing. These have been challenging weeks. Ones that have shown be moments of great pain and love.

Thank you for reading, and peace be with you.

"Do what you can."

2010-11-07T13:10:00.000-08:00

Outside of my rondavel there is a plaque. It was put up in memory of Dr. Chris McConnachie, who came to South Africa over thirty years ago with his wife Jenny, to begin the work that would become African Medical Mission. One of Dr. McConnachie's, or "Prof's," favorite phrases is inscribed on the plaque. It reads, "Do what you can." At the beginning of my third month here in Mthatha, I'm beginning to more fully understand this statement. At times the level of poverty, lack of resources, high rates of HIV and TB that we see daily at Itipini Community Project seem overwhelming. I try to remember Prof's words when I start to feel as if there is little I can do to make a difference. I also keep Micah 6:8 with me, “He has showed you, O man, what is good. And what does the Lord require of you? To act justly and to love mercy and to walk humbly with your God.” These are two phrases that have been on my mind lately, and I hope stay with me through the coming year. They bring me comfort, but also push me to act and learn from others.

I have also been thankful for the community of volunteers that live here at Bedford and from others working in Mthatha to do what they can. The picture I’ve posted is from one of our Wednesday night dinners that occurs weekly at Jenny’s house. This is a time for good conversation, great food, and to talk about how things are going in our lives. These gatherings and others like them are highlights of my weeks here. They also remind me that, “You can meet them in school, or in lanes, or at sea, in church, or in trains, or in shops, or at tea, for the saints of God are folk just like me, and I mean to be one too” (Hymn 293, BCP).

Happy All Saints’ Sunday!

Hope this finds you all doing well, and thanks for reading.

2010-10-25T13:02:00.000-07:00

On the universality of fascination with fire trucks, juice stains, and other thoughts.

2010-10-17T02:29:00.000-07:00

Friday was one of my favorite days so far. It was field trip day for the preschool. All week the anticipation had been building in the community about the big day, and I was getting excited about being the “support car” for the day. I was to follow the big bus in our new AMM volunteer car, carrying the all important picnic supplies, helping chaperone, and available to run ahead to let each location know we were on the way.

The road leading to Itipini can be quite rough in some places, but the big passenger bus wound its way slowly into the project. Upon its arrival, the children’s departure soon became a community wide event. As we walked down the hill to the bus, the kids and their parents sang and danced in celebration. People peered out from their homes, and soon quite a crowd had gathered to send the children off for the day.

We made our way to the fire station first, where Chief Le Kaye met with the kids. We learned about “Stop, Drop, and Roll” and how to dial “112” in case of emergency. There I saw that fascination with fire trucks and firemen seem to stretch beyond borders, and reminded me of how much I looked forward to Fire Safety Week at Alpine Crest Elementary. It meant a visit from the fire station, drawing colorful evacuation plans for our houses, and fire drills that seemed to me kind of like a recess bonus round as we filed out into the sunshine of the playground. The Itipini preschoolers looked on in awe when the sirens and lights flashed on the truck, and we all laughed as one of the little boys was dressed in fire gear that enveloped him.

The next stop was the Nelson Mandela Museum. There the kids were led around, looking and listening to the story of a man who was once a young boy raised in the same part of the country where they are growing up. One highlight from the museum was seeing the kids react to the recreation of the cell where Mandela lived on Robben Island. All of the kids tried to squeeze inside the tiny cell at once, and imagine life in such a small space. In the last room of the museum there is a video playing with scenes from Mandela’s 90^th birthday celebration, and at one point a choir starts singing the South African National Anthem. Without any prompting, the preschoolers all started singing along.

The National Anthem of South Africa is unique in that it contains five different languages and combines lyrics from the old national anthem, the Methodist hymn/song of defiance under apartheid “Nkosi Siskelel’ iAfrika,” and some original lyrics. This hybrid song asks God to bless Africa, bless her children, end conflicts, and concludes with a call to, “Let us live and strive for freedom in South Africa our land.” Hearing and seeing the children from Itipini spontaneously sing these words in the Nelson Mandela Museum was really quite something. In that moment I saw hope for their future, and for further reconciliation in this nation. The children from Itipini are living examples of the economic disparity that still exists, but in their singing, they were also it seems to me, showing that they are not bound to this identity only. They are children who are learning what words like “freedom,” “reconciliation,” “unity,” “hate,” and “love” mean for their country and in their own lives. And for me, they were strong reminders of the power of the human voice…especially in song. It brought to mind this quote from Eduardo Galeano’s The Book of Embraces: “When it is genuine, when it is born of the need to speak, no one can stop the human voice. When denied a mouth, it speaks with the hands or the eyes, or the pores, or anything at all. Because every single one of us has something to say to the others, something that deserves to be celebrated or forgiven by others. "

From the museum it was on to Nduli Nature Reserve. Nduli is right outside of downtown Mthatha. We made the winding loop around Nduli, seeing some antelopes and wildebeest. Gathering in the picnic area, hot dogs were cooked, apples were eaten, chips were crunched, and juice was spilled. There I observed that just as little kids’ fascination with fire trucks appears to be universal, so too it seems is the ability for the juice from juice boxes to some how end up all over white t-shirts.

After lunch and playing at Nduli it was time to head back to Itipini. Much like our send-off, the community was waiting for our arrival. Mothers greeted their children as if they had been gone for a year, and songs were sung in celebration of our return from a day full of adventures. As the kids disembarked, it began to sprinkle, and then as if right on cue, a rainbow appeared. It accompanied the preschool teachers and me on the way home. All around, it was a very good day.

Weekends

2010-10-10T05:52:00.000-07:00

Good Sunday. This weekend I decided to stay in Mthatha to catch up on some reading, writing, and to update you all on what's been happening. It's been a relaxing past couple of days. This morning I visited the Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist for the first time. This is the big Anglican cathedral downtown, and it was good to be at the service. For the passing of the peace, everyone in the congregation held hands--across aisles and over pews--to all stand and sing together in peace. It was pretty great.

Yesterday, I paid a visit to the Nelson Mandela Museum, which is just a block away from St. John's. Mandela is from the area is this one of three museums that tell his story. I really enjoyed the museum, and the history nerd in me was interested in the way his stories were told. Being there also made me realize how influential many of my classes at Sewanee were on my decision to apply to YASC, and how my own history is being shaped by my time here...more on that later.

This Columbus Day weekend, for you all in the States, I decided I'd share a little bit from my past couple of weekends to give you a few pictures of Coffee Bay, Grahamstown, and Addo Elephant Park. Last weekend's visit to Coffee Bay was beautiful, and I went on a great hike to Hole in the Wall. It was a relaxing and fun weekend, and definitely a place to go back to over the year. Grahamstown two weekends ago gave me a glimpse of a very European city in South Africa, and one where education is the main industry. I was so happy to see Travis, one of my fellow YASCers, and to get caught up on the last few months. Addo Elephant Park was also a fun day trip adventure from Grahamstown. Lots of elephant sightings, and thankfully we were able to safely alight from our vehicle without a lion encounter. Anyway, here are a few pictures from the weekends...Hope you enjoy!

Monday Happenings at Itipini

2010-09-27T09:44:00.001-07:00

It's the start of my third week here, and I thought I'd share some scenes from a Monday at Itipini. Today a truck came to pick up the cardboard that members of the recycling crew here have been collecting for the past few months, and will help generate income for one of the new sustainability projects in the community. Some of the kids worked in the garden this afternoon to get it ready for new Spring plants, and the preschoolers enjoyed an afternoon snack. Work in the clinic has been going well so far, and it's nice to start recognizing patients, staff, and other community members. My basic Xhosa is starting to improve too, and my first official language lesson later this week will be very welcome.

This past weekend I was able to take a trip to Grahamstown to see a new place and to meet up with Travis, one of my fellow YASCers. It was a really nice weekend, complete with great company, elephants, Thai food, running into a former Sewanee student (such a small world), and a beautiful drive. In my next post I hope to include more about the trip, including some pictures and video from the weekend, but for now here are some scenes from life at Itipini...

(Apologies for funky formatting today. The internet is not being very friendly here tonight.)

Thanks for stopping by, and peace.

Greetings from Mthatha!

2010-09-18T06:38:00.001-07:00

Here was the view from my window as I arrived in Johannesburg last Sunday. It's hard to believe I've been here almost a week, and there's already so much to tell. After a nearly 16 hour plane ride from Atlanta to Johannesburg, I was greatful for a restful night's stay at the Afton Guest House. Then it was up for an early morning flight to Mthatha. Jenny McConnachie, who is the nurse I will be working with this year at Itipini, met me at the airport and since then has been my guide for the week.

Monday through Friday I spent my days in Itipini, where I have been able to meet some of the community. Most of my time thus far has been helping out in the clinic by finding patients' medical cards, packing pills, logging treatments for the day, and helping give TB patients their daily regimens. Tuesday is baby day at the clinic, and there were nearly 70 babies and mothers treated by Jenny and Sister Dorothy who are the two nurses on staff at the clinic. One of the highlights of my morning is going to prayers at the preschool...this usually entails a hundle of little ones standing in a circle outside singing, clapping, and dancing as the teachers lead them in song. It can't help but make me smile, and hope that one day soon I'll know the Xhosa words so that I can join in with them.

Other highlights of this week have included dinner at Jenny's house on Thursday with an American volunteer who works at Beford Orthopedic Hospital as a physical therapist and a South African medical student here in Mthatha. Jenny hosts these weekly at her home for volunteers. It was a great time to relax, enjoy some tasty lasagna, and have some good conversations (somehow we managed to cover topics from the ongoing strikes at local schools here in Mthatha to Dolly Parton). Grocery shopping was another fun adventure at the local SuperSpar, and today I had my second try at driving a stick shift...although I have to admit driving on a new side of the road and with taxi drivers who generally pay little attention to others on the road, made it a little trickier. I've got a year to get it down though, and I hope to at least semi-master the roads of Mthatha by then.

All in all it's been a really good first week here. I'm learning a lot about the African Medical Mission, and I'm seeing how my role here will take shape for the coming year. The rondavel where I'm living at Bedford Hospital is really nice, and I'm getting the hang of knowing when the water is on and off...and when it's hot. Jenny has been such a help in getting me oriented, and I look forward to being able to explore more of Mthatha and South Africa on my weekends off.

There's much more to come, and I hope to have pictures from Itipini, Mthatha, and Bedford Hospital up soon to give you more of a glimpse into my live in Mthatha so far.

Peace.

Tomorrow...

2010-09-10T07:03:00.000-07:00

I can't believe it, but tomorrow is the big day. I'll leave in the afternoon from Chattanooga for Atlanta then it's on to Johannesburg. After a short stay overnight, I'll arrive in Mthatha early morning of September 13th. Wow.

I've had wonderful send offs from Chattanooga, Atlanta, and Sewanee that have included a bonfire, a commissioning, a sermon, pool side chats, Thai food, and porch sitting. Today I have some time to spend with my parents, run my last errands, play with Lou the dog and Max the cat...oh and finish up this packing business.

Storytelling

2010-07-29T09:16:00.000-07:00

The video link below was one that was shared with our YASC group while we were in Toronto. Novelist Chimamanda Adichie describes her own experiences with stories and finding your voice. It has helped me a lot in thinking about the power of stories and my own role in sharing them over the next year. When you have a few minutes, take a look. Also, TED Talks in general are pretty great, so check them out.

TEDTalks: Chimamanda Adichie

Peace be with you, and let us walk together.

Here we go...

2010-07-26T10:19:00.000-07:00

Greetings and welcome to my blog where I hope to share my year in service as a member of the Young Adult Service Corps (YASC) in Mthatha, South Africa. YASC is a part of the Episcopal Church’s Mission Personnel Office and gives young adults the opportunity to engage globally in international mission work. In September I will be leaving for Mthatha, South Africa where I will spend a year working with the Itipini Community Project, a part of the African Medical Mission. I am excited and humbled by this opportunity to immerse myself in new communities where I will be exploring themes of community, reconciliation, love, mission, and partnership in my own life and in the life of the Anglican Communion.

This quote from Lila Watson helps guide my approach to the coming year that will be spent as a missionary of the Episcopal Church. So too is John 13:34-35 where Jesus says, “A new command I give you: Love one another. As I have loved you, so you must love one another. By this all men will know that you are my disciples, if you love one another.”

I probably never would have guessed that I would be a missionary and still sometimes cannot believe that this is where I am headed next. However, the time I have spent with my fellow YASCers at our discernment weekend in Florida, our two week orientation in Toronto, and my growing understanding of the Episcopal perspective on mission have helped me to see that this year is about partnership. This year will be about recognizing that we are working together to understand our lives and our stories, and to do so in love. I have a feeling that this year will teach me much about mutual liberation and what it means to live out Christ’s command to love.

As I prepare to for my time in South Africa, I am currently in the midst of fundraising, getting my visa, and spending time with friends and family. I know that this journey would not be possible without the support of my wonderful parents, my family, my friends, St. Paul’s Episcopal Church, the Sewanee community, and the many individuals who have brought me to this decision that has been twenty-three years in the making. With little more that a month before I make my way to Mthatha, I look forward with great hope and openness towards a year that will be unlike any other. A dear friend reminded me of a quote from The Little Prince that sums up much of what I feel, "I have not much time. I have friends to discover, and a great many things to understand!" This year I will be leaving many friends, but also know that they will share in this time of great discovery and new understanding with me.

Peace be with you, and let us walk together.